Apparently, I am still not completely home yet, at least in my head. Even though I'm busy making books, looking for clients, paying bills, and all that other stuff one does at home, I'm mentally abroad somewhere. It's like I'm not over the high of being in Barcelona. It hasn't yet gotten into my dreamlife, the way London did, but I expect it will, simply because it's such a supremely beautiful and somewhat magical place. To make up for the fact I'm back in New York, I'm simultaneously reading two travel books, one of which I'd loaded onto my PDA on the way over and didn't get to, and one I picked up afterwards. Both revolve around Italy, but one, Frances Mayes's A Year in the World, also has some side trips to Spain, to give me just a little whiff of the culture I enjoyed so much. The second book, The Lady in the Palazzo by Marlena de Blasi, is a wholly Italian book, an expatriate's book, in fact, but both of them have such dead-on observations about travel, and why some of us travel the way we do, that I feel I've sort of extended my trip by finding kindred souls.
Originally, I intended to write here about the vicarious kind of traveling we do through books and the dreaming about it, and why we do it, but I've discovered myself focusing not just on travel, but on food, too. Both Mayes and de Blasi write a lot about food in the places they live or visit (Mayes also has a house in Tuscany of Under the Tuscan Sun fame) and realize that it defines a culture almost as much as (maybe more than) the art and language. Indeed, in many cases, food shapes the language.
Mayes talks about "the realization that worlds you'd love vibrantly exist outside your ignorance of them. The vitality of many lives you know nothing about." The people we observe in our travels are not on vacation; they are just living their lives; going to work, shopping, picking up the kids, cooking, going to the movies, eating at their favorite local restaurant. It's the differences in the pace and attitude, customs and cuisine that makes them attractive, if not magical, in comparison to ours. Especially from the people who seem to be enjoying themselves in their daily lives so much more than we do. This was certainly true of the Spaniards I met, who never seemed to be in too much of a hurry to enjoy anything, especially food, a state of mind I could definitely get used to. Mayes advises, "I prefer to think of the end of exploring as an invitation to return to my origins and transform them." As good advice as you could ask for.
Mayes also writes about that mysterious moment when some place you've traveled to becomes home, whether you have a drop of that culture in your blood or not. I didn't feel that happen in Spain the way I did in England and Scotland, where my bloodlines run, but I'm a little afraid it might happen in Italy, and that I might wind up like Marlena de Blasi, unexpectedly married to an Italian man and living as an expat, in the middle of my life's journey. There are definitely worse things, I have to say, especially the way de Blasi's painted it. She's thoroughly immersed herself in the culture, to the extent that she can observe of other foreigners, "When an outsider is scandalized by the comportment of another society, it is because he measures it against his own set of cultural expectations—often idealized—as though his own were universal." Italian society and its way of doing things maddens her at times, but she doesn't judge it. It's just the way it is in Italy and with Italians. And what a bounty of friendship she reaps in return, even from the tight-knit, feudal society of Orvieto. And the way she wheedles herself into their hearts? By cooking for them, and eating their food. She eats handmade "illegal" cheese in a field with the two shepherds who made it. She borrows a restaurant kitchen to test recipes for a book in exchange for baking bread for the cook and her clientele too. She makes the circuit of local food festivals and farmers markets, and cultivates relationships with the local growers and butchers.
In this spirit, I'm adding a third book to this ramble, Barbara Kingsolver's new Animal, Vegetable, Miracle, which is not a travel book at all, but a book about staying home. It is also very much about food (and very funny), as both of the previous books are, too. (You'll find bookstore links to all three of them in my Headcandy sidebar. the Kingsolver link here is to the book's website, which has recipes.) One of the reasons real travelers travel is to experience other cultures, and a huge part of any culture is the food. It's one of the things I was looking forward to most when I went to Spain. I eat pretty well here in NYC, where I can sample many of the cuisines the world has to offer. But nothing ever tastes like it does on its native soil. Both Mayes and de Blasi (who has been a professional chef and now guides food tours in Italy) making cooking and eating a big part of writing about their experiences as travelers and expats, so well that they often made my mouth water. Kingsolver brings it home to her farm in Virginia and ties it tightly to her own farm and the farms within a 50 mile radius, in a year of eating only what her farm or others nearby produce throughout the year. The purpose is to try to reduce her family's carbon footprint in buying foodstuffs trucked in from all over the world at unseasonal times of year.
This is an admirable goal, but difficult if you don't live on a farm yourself, farmers markets or no. When possible, I prefer to buy locally myself, just because it tastes so much better, but I'm not averse to buying things out of season once in a while. I don't think this is the best way to reduce our carbon footprint, for one thing, and it's idealistic to think that agribusiness will be brought to its knees only by buying locally. What I'm afraid will do it is the very real specter of famine Monsanto et al are plotting for us all in their genetic engineering of crops which do not reseed themselves (like the domestic turkeys Kingsolver talks about which are too stupid and too fat to mate naturally). Hopes of a food monopoly will then, I'm afraid, shatter in armed rebellion to grab land they can grow something edible on. Quibbles aside, there is so much delight and pleasure in gardening and eating in this book that it's a joy to read.
Threaded through all three of these books are panegyrics to farmers markets—common enough parts of life in Europe but ridiculously scarce here in the States where monoculture, agribusiness, and supermarkets rule. Even in Michigan, an ostensibly agricultural state, in the Great White North we were starved for fresh veggies even in the summer months, unless we discovered a local kitchen gardener or farmer who had a sideline in veggies from his main crops of sugar beets, soy beans, and field (feed) corn. My chief delights when I was a kid were fresh kohlrabi, carrots, apples, and sweet corn, bought out of the field or from roadside stands. The rest of the year it was canned LeSeur peas, spinach, and spuds. And I was in absolute heaven when invited to dinner at Mel's house, where her Mom had the greenest thumb around and taught me to eat fresh and lightly steamed beet greens with a little cider vinegar (and the occasional somewhat bleached spider). For a couple of years, we had our own little kitchen garden, with carrots and spicy nasturtiums and I discovered how cool it was to eat flowers! When I moved to New York twenty years ago, I was awestruck by the Union Square Greenmarket in all its midsummer glory. (This seems like a good place to add the Schmap of New York City markets featuring one of my photographs of the Union Square Greenmarket.)
Then I saw the Boqueria in Barcelona.
For some reason I can't fathom, I didn't take pictures there, even when I'd gone back on a weekday when it was less crowded, but there's a good description here. And it's just one of several permanent covered markets throughout the city. But no wonder it's a tourist attraction. There, you're reminded of how truly beautiful food is, and how integral to a country's culture. Being able to see the raw ingredients of what people cook gives you a window into the culture that just eating in a restaurant doesn't. You can tell, just from the markets, that Spain cares about good food, not just in its restaurants, but at home as well. The sheer variety of foodstuffs is breathtaking: dairy and eggs, seafood, fruits and vegetables, herbs and spices, meat and poultry, sausages, cheese, bread, pasta, olive oil, dried fruits and nuts. It's basically an open-air, covered supermarket, where nothing is packaged and everything is trucked in fresh daily, in season, and everything that's processed is what we call artisinal. (Oh, and those olives I was raving about? They're manzanillas, though they don't taste quite the same here. I suspect I've only had the ones from California.)
And why is there nothing like this in New York City? Why can't Bronx Terminal Market be like this? Why can't we turn other derelict spaces into something that feeds the city, rather than turning them into condos? All these people here have to eat. Why shouldn't we all eat well? Instead, we live in a culture where food is not only merely sustenance but often an agent of evil. And this is why, Kingsolver says, America does not have its own foodways. A visit to the farmers markets here won't tell you very much. I suspect this is why some of us flee to other countries where the Big Mac is not welcome and slow food is a way of life. So I guess it's no wonder I'm not quite home yet. I guess the next best thing to do is go to the kitchen and cook.